Newfoundland 2002

LORNE IS BACK IN UPPER CASE ITALICS!

Note: This letter is a reconstruction; not the original. (just like all the historic sites we’ve seen). Lorne clicked on ‘options’ in hotmail on Louise’s finished draft and it all disappeared. We have attempted to re-create it, doing the best we can, under the circumstances. LOUISE SAID IT WASN’T A BIG DEAL – SAID SHE COULD EASILY RE-CREATE THE LETTER FROM HER NOTES. HER NOTE ABOVE EXPLAINS WHY SHE DIDN’T TALK TO ME TODAY.

June 29

On the way to the Ottawa airport, Louise says to Lorne "The house we're staying at for a week in Salvage, Newfoundland, doesn't have a house number. It doesn't have a street name either. Edythe, the landlady, told me it’s between the fish plant and the church. It’s the house with yellow doors. Doesn’t that sound exotic?"

"At least it has a door," says Lorne, still a whiner (despite his best efforts), even after surviving I LIKE TO THINK OF IT AS ‘OVERCOMING’ the Cotswold walk, the PEI bike, and the Banff hike. NEXT YEAR, SEPARATE VACATION. I THINK I SAID THAT LAST YEAR, TOO.
The journey begins.

July 1, 8 a.m.

Lorne walks past three airport billboards saying, in big red letters: ‘Do you have any sharp objects ?' He knows it doesn't apply to him, so pays no attention. Goes through security. Gets pulled to one side. "Do you have scissors in your carry on bag, sir?" says the nice security guard. "No", says Lorne. "Yes, you do" says the formerly nice guard, motioning another guard over. "Do you have a shaving kit in this bag?" asks the guard, knowing that the answer is yes. "Oh, yes. I do," remembers Lorne. "And I have nail scissors in it".

After 10 minutes, Lorne is cleared through security, sans nail scissors. Says to Louise, "We’ll buy new ones. Did you know they have a big pile of them in back?" After a moment’s reflection he says, "Remember when you said that travelling with me is stressful for you? Like that time I lost my passport? Well, I just do this kind of thing to get you to lighten up."

Flights are otherwise uneventful. LOUISE SAYS I SHOULDN’T MENTION THE CUTE 9-MONTH OLD BOY IN HIS GRANDPA’S LAP RIGHT BESIDE ME. TWO MINUTES INTO THE FLIGHT HE MADE A NOISE LIKE A GARBAGE TRUCK BACKING UP AND DIDN’T STOP UNTIL JUST BEFORE WE LANDED. OTHERWISE UNEVENTFUL. EXCEPT FOR THE TURBULENCE..

4 pm

Drive rental car into downtown St. John’s and find house Jamie Allister is kindly letting us stay in for the week, 15 Victoria Street, a maroon-coloured townhouse on a very steep street lined both sides by colourful rowhouses, most renovated or under construction. BEGINNING AT 6 AM EVERY MORNING, RIGHT ACROSS THE STREET. HAMMERING, TEARING OF NAILS. It is walking distance to everything downtown, as we soon found out. ENGLAND IS WALKING DISTANCE FROM HERE, TOO, ACCORDING TO LOUISE. It is completely refurbished and renovated. We have won the accommodation lottery!

As we got here first (our friends the Winqvists will join us on Thursday), we chose the top (third) floor bedroom which has a functional fireplace and a whirlpool tub. When we enter, it is hot in the room, as the house has been closed up. Lorne sees a portable air conditioner unit on floor. I refuse to help install it and instead open a window. After 20 minutes of grunting and mumbling, Lorne has the unit in place in another window. It works. Room has cooled down by now, except for Lorne, who is sweating from work (unaccustomed as he is). Lorne admits we don’t need it (cross breeze on a July night in St. John’s makes room a sleep-able 15 C) and puts unit back in its place on the floor.

We walk along Water Street (main downtown street) and go for a traditional Newfoundland dinner in a small diner. (For some reason Louise had been eating roast beef sandwiches for the past two days.) Louise gives cod tongues a thumbs up. Lorne prefers the traditional part of the cod. FRIED. WITH FRENCH FRIES. Maybe eating fish every day will improve Louise’s swimming.

July 2

Went for a short early morning run along the harbour, beside a big red Russian ship and an orange Coast Guard vessel tied to the wharf. Couldn’t manage to run back up the huge hill to the house. If I ever say I’m going to do the Newfoundland marathon, tell me to go to ‘hill’. OK. GO TO HILL.

Walked around old St. John’s. There are 30 pubs within walking distance of the house. Drove back to the airport to have the insurance surcharge deleted because we are in fact covered on our personal auto policy. We have this debate EVERY trip. Fish and chips for lunch.

p.m.
Climbed Signal Hill, used for signalling since 1704. Flags from the top were used for military defence and to let merchants prepare for ships coming in. Marconi received the first trans Atlantic wireless signal here in 1901.

Then, just warmed up from that upward climb, we drove to Cape Spear, the most easterly point in North America and climbed some more. The views were spectacular at both. Lorne surprised even himself that he wasn’t complaining as much as usual. I DIDN’T COMPLAIN AT ALL. THOSE EARLY MORNING WALKS/JOGS IN STRATFORD HAVE PUT ME INTO TERRIFIC SHAPE. ON THE INSIDE.
Checking out all the local crafts, but saving my business for the craftspeople of Salvage next week. The population of St. John’s is about 100,000 but there must be double that in the population of little wooden men in yellow raincoats. If any of you want one, let me know.

As is common knowledge, everyone here is friendly. How friendly? Cars stop in the middle of a block if they even think you want to cross the street. AND THEY WON’T MOVE UNTIL YOU CROSS. SOMETIMES WE DIDN’T WANT TO.

Everyone says hello on the trails. Shop people are willing to help with advice or information even if it is clear you aren’t buying anything. A friend of Jamie’s (the out of town owner of the house we’re staying in), who is himself a friend of a friend, calls to make sure everything is fine with us and to say we should call him if we need anything.

July 3, 2002

This morning we drove to Quidi Vidi Village and climbed the Cuckold Cove Trail DON’T ASK up to the Ladies Lookout, the highest point in the area, where sailors’ wives used to go to wait for their return. It is a 25 minute uphill climb (15 minutes coming down). Lorne’s legs are still functioning. NOT MUCH GOOD FOR WALKING ANYMORE, THOUGH

Like Marconi, further communications to follow. (if we don’t accidently delete them.)

Love to all

Louise and LORNE